Hands down, the coolest place in town is the Altazor Arz Cafe on the Plazuela Machado downtown. Bookstore, cafe, live music venue, publisher of literary magazine, venue for literary festivals. And right there on the little plaza that is Mazatlan's cultural heart, across from the opera house and music conservatory.
I've sat at tables on the sidewak with international ballerinas, state political bigshots, cartel lieutenants, musicians from around the world, and many of Mexico's literary elite.
Read poetry backed up by saxophone.
Hector, the owner, is one of the city's literary angels.